It’s incredible to think that St Austell Brewery is 175 years old, I had no idea they had been around for so long. To celebrate such a milestone and achievement, I was invited to attend a seven course tasting menu at one of the breweries pubs, Pedn Olva in St Ives, and stay the night.
I took the easiest route to St Ives, which in my opinion is by train. I was welcomed warmly at Pedn Olva and taken to my newly refurbished cosy double room. It was beautifully decorated, with everything I could need, and had a sea view over Porthminster Beach.
Pedn Olva has different rooms to cater for all needs and budgets. These range from cosy cabin rooms to deluxe suites. All are well designed with king size bed. Mine was ridiculously comfy, like home from home, and the pillows were sumptuously enveloping. With the sea just outside my window, I knew I would be listening to the gentle lapping of the tide as I drifted off.
The rooms are well equipped and thought out. I’m always impressed when there’s a coffee machine ready to fire up in the morning. I also liked the retro Roberts radio which was on when I arrived, offering a relaxing and welcoming energy.
It felt good to be spending a night somewhere with a strong historical connection to Cornwall. I’m not just talking about St Austell Brewery being a huge part of Cornish history but also Pedn Olva’s history. The site is an old copper mine, with the old engine house and mine shaft situated directly below the pub. In fact, there were small, subtle touches throughout the pub and in my room that indicated how much the location and Cornish connection had been considered. Think lots of natural materials, like wood and granite, and traditional coastal hues, like muted blues and green with bold ochre which reminded me of lichen.
The room alone would have made for a memorable stay. The real reason for my visit was a special one: a seven course tasting menu by Head Chef, Tom Pryce to celebrate 175 years of St Austell Brewery.
It’s incredible to think that St Austell Brewery started in 1851 as a family run business and is now one of the oldest in the UK. Initially, the focus was on wine and malting, but it soon expanded to brewing, acquiring their first pub in St Austell. In 1999, St Austell Brewery launched Tribute, its signature ale and it continues to be one of Cornwall’s best known hospitality businesses.
While celebrating the longevity of St Austell Brewery, the evening was also about celebrating Cornwall and the relationship St Austell Brewery have with their longstanding, local suppliers, meaning the food doesn’t travel far before it reaches the table. The menu was an assertive nod to the farmers, fishermen and producers who have supplied St Austell Brewery and its venues for generations.
Our evening started with drinks and canapés on the terrace, where I got to meet some of the St Austell Brewery team and the other Cornwall content creators who had been invited. We were a relatively small group so while it was a long table dining experience, it also felt personal and intimate. That said, it was a wonderfully social evening where I met and got to know other Cornwall creatives, some of the hardworking marketing team at St Austell Brewery and the local suppliers.
Following our time on the terrace, we were taken to our beautifully decorated table with an expansive sea view. We were formally introduced to the evening by Stu and Charlie from St Austell Brewery, and watched a beautifully curated video about the local suppliers and the story of the relationships between each of them and St Austell Brewery. As someone who grew up around Cornwall’s fishing industry, I found myself feeling nostalgic when the fishermen popped up as it took me back to my childhood and memories of my grandparents. It served as a reminder too, of how deeply connected Cornwall’s communities, industries and food culture have always been.
As the canapés were our first course, the second was Oyster, picked apple and fennel salami, paired with a traditional classic Tarquins Gin and tonic. I’m partial to the odd oyster and recognise that for some, they are an acquired taste. This was delicious, with the apple and flavours offsetting the usual saltiness found with some seafood. I particularly liked the touch of the oyster being served on a bed of seaweed, foraged locally by the head chef that morning from the shores below.
As expected, all ingredients were locally sourced, with food and drink from Cornwall and the south west being the star of the show. You’ll see from the photos how beautifully presented the dishes were; a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds.
An asparagus course with black garlic, sheep yoghurt and truffle crumb was certainly memorable and a nudge for me to eat more gras. The bold earthy flavour of the vegetable went so well with the mild and subtly sweet offering from the sheep yoghurt. I wasn’t sure if I would like the sheep yoghurt but surpassed my expectations and I ate the lot. To complement the second course, we had a refreshing Connie Glaze Vodka, basil and grapefruit highball.
I think the following course was a bit of a standout for me. It was Lobster, bisque, lemon puree paired with a Connie Glaze passionfruit spritz whose tropical notes lifted the richness of the bisque beautifully.
Despite being the granddaughter of a Cornish fisherman, I can’t say I’ve a tasted a whole lot of lobster. I remember trying to in the Caribbean and didn’t like it that much. Shocking, I know. This, however, was a different experience and I loved it. It was meaty, tasty and I could’ve eaten the whole dish again once I’d finished. The bisque was bright and glossy and so vibrant in colour, it was certainly a standout dish for me.
The fifth course was Mackerel tartare, buttermilk dashi, jalepeños, dill, accompanied by a Tarquins Cornish Picante. This was another pretty plate of food, and I love fresh fish so I knew it would be a winner. The drink was delicious too; refreshingly zesty with a hint of chilli or spice. As you can imagine, by this point, I was starting to feel the effect of the all the alcohol and to put no finer point on it, I felt pretty fantastic!
As the evening unfolded, the menu weaved together confident flavours, moving from delicate seafood dishes to more heartier flavours. Hello, Cornish Lamb, from local supplier, Etherington Meats, courgette and basil. The sauce was so good and the meat tender and pink. We stepped away from the gin for this course and were served an Old Fashioned using Tinner Brothers Whiskey. I’m no whiskey drinker but this is a cocktail I could get on board with. It had a toffee aftertaste, and I felt like it was giving me a warm hug as I drank it.
To finish our outstanding meal, we were treated to Lemon sorbet, paired with a Connie Glaze Hugo Spritz. I have to come clean and say I can’t remember the cocktail at all other than I enjoyed it. The desert was generous in size and light. I’m a big fan of citrus flavours and this was the perfect way to end our wonderful evening.
The evening started relatively early, which meant we weren’t too late to bed. I was grateful for this as I had to be up for work in the morning. I made myself comfy in bed with a cup of tea, and watched Love Island (I know, I should stop it!) before settling down for the night.
I slept well and took full advantage of the coffee machine as I got ready for the day ahead. Breakfast started at 7.30 and while I would’ve loved to have had a cooked breakfast, I had to catch the early train and only had time for a few croissants and more coffee (I needed it!). Even so, there was plenty of choice from the buffet, cereals, juices, cheese, meats. If I had taken advantage of the brekkie menu, I would’ve pipped for the Eggs Benedict – the best breakfast, in my opinion.
If only every morning could start with breakfast by the sea, a stark contrast to the busy day ahead of me. I left for the train feeling rested and well fed. I might’ve had a headache too but what happens in St Ives, stays in St Ives! If only I could stay a little longer and have a day in one of my favourite Cornish towns.
You can find out more about Pedn Olva, St Ives on their website.
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